It was here, a year ago, that I found the inspiration to start Esas Mesas. Oaxaca’s vibrant artisan community and thoughtful gathering traditions left a powerful impression. I wanted to share the beauty and stories behind the pieces I discovered.

Here’s your guide to experiencing the magic of Oaxaca like I did!

Don't have time to read? Here are the highlights:

• Kickstart your day with fresh bread and bold coffee at Boulenc.
• Witness the art of candlemaking at Casa Viviana.
• Savor rooftop mole and cathedral views at Casa Oaxaca.
• Take a stroll through the Santo Domingo Botanical Gardens.

These boutique stays are as charming as the city itself:

• Grana B&B: Minimalist design meets cozy courtyards. The perfect place to recharge. Plus, the most beautiful blue tile kitchen!

• Casa Antonieta: Modern, sleek, and effortlessly cool. Their rooftop café is the perfect place to relax after a long day of exploring.

• Hotel Escondido Oaxaca: A Grupo Habita Hotel, chic and luxurious, complete with a rooftop pool that’ll make you want to stay forever.

Oaxaca’s culinary scene is special, blending bold flavors, fresh local ingredients, and traditional cooking techniques. One of the things I love most about dining in Oaxaca is the open kitchens. Almost every restaurant lets you see the food being made—whether it’s tortillas being flipped on a stove in the center of the dining room or dishes being prepared with care right in front of you. It’s such a unique and personal way to experience the food.

Breakfast & Cafes

• Pan con Madre: Freshly baked bread and pastries to start your day.
• Boulenc: Part bakery, part café, offering creative breakfast dishes alongside incredible artisanal bread. Their shop sells jams, salsas, and other fresh preserves so you can take the magic home.
• Masea Trigo y Maíz: A celebration of Oaxaca’s relationship with corn, offering a delicious modern take on traditional breakfast fare.

Lunch

• Casa de Humo: With wood stoves, clay griddles, and adobe walls, Casa de Humo brings Chef Thalía Barrios' rich culinary heritage from San Mateo Yucutindoó to life. Located in the heart of Oaxaca, this spot offers more than meals—it’s an experience. Enjoy traditional dishes, participate in Oaxacan cooking classes, or browse a curated collection of clay pieces from rural artisans.
• Levadura de Olla: At just 28, Chef Thalía Barrios has emerged as a culinary star in Oaxaca, earning a Michelin star and the Young Chef Award in 2024. Her menu highlights the incredible diversity of local ingredients, including over 30 tomato varieties on her family’s farm. Her famed tomato dish perfectly embodies her dedication to simple, authentic flavors elevated by impeccable sourcing.
• Criollo: A culinary gem from Chef Enrique Olvera, the mastermind behind Mexico City’s Pujol. Criollo offers a seasonal tasting menu in a stunning courtyard, blending innovation and tradition in every dish. Chickens roam freely as you dine, and the space also doubles as a chic Airbnb.

Dinner

• Crudo: A fusion of Japanese and Oaxacan flavors with raw and marinated seafood that’s as inventive as delicious. You’ll sit at an intimate bar and watch your meal prepared before your eyes.
• Casa Oaxaca: Rooftop views, unforgettable mole, and house-made salsa prepared tableside. Their turkey in Mole Negro, made with over 30 ingredients, is a standout dish.

Meet the Makers

Oaxaca’s artisan community is the heart and soul of the region. These are the must-visit spots to experience their craft firsthand:

• Casa Viviana: Located in the village of Teotitlán del Valle, Casa Viviana preserves the traditional art of candlemaking, passed down through generations of women. Adorned with intricate wax flowers, these candles are crafted for rituals and celebrations, symbolizing light and spirituality. The women at Casa Viviana are not just artisans—they are keepers of a tradition that continues to illuminate Oaxacan culture.
• Central de Abastos Market: A sensory overload of fresh produce, vibrant textiles, and handmade goods. This is Oaxaca in its most raw and authentic form.
• Jacobo & María Ángeles: Located in San Martín Tilcajete, their workshop is a creative haven for crafting alebrijes—fantastical, brightly colored wooden creatures. Rooted in Zapotec folklore, alebrijes are believed to serve as spirit guides. Every piece is meticulously carved and painted, reflecting hours of work and a deep connection to Oaxacan heritage.

Mezcal Moments

Oaxaca is the cradle of mezcal, and there’s no better place to sip and savor this iconic spirit. Visit Mezcaloteca for a curated tasting of rare, artisanal mezcals that offer a journey through the diverse flavors and traditions of Oaxaca's mezcal culture.

Explore Selva, a hidden gem offering unique cocktails and mezcal tastings in an intimate, low-key setting, perfect for a relaxed evening out. Plus, it was recognized among North America's 50 Best Bars!

Don’t miss In Situ Mezcaleria, where you can enjoy an exceptional selection of mezcals curated by expert Ulises Torrentera, making it a must-visit for those seeking an educational and authentic experience.

Wrap up your mezcal tour at Sabina Sabe, a stylish bar blending creative cocktails, a robust mezcal list, and a menu of light bites, ideal for a vibrant happy hour or a late-night adventure.